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Possible Junk Lies Ahead:
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The Appalachian Trail Journal
By: Ben Corr
The journal has landed
Hello All (by which I probably mean Billy and my mother as I can't see this
log having a huge following),
Billy has kindly set up this Blog thing for me. Not much generally happens in my
life that would warrant a running commentary, so this space is probably going to
be used to publish my journals from our 2003 thru-hike of the Appalachian Trail.
I kept a journal fairly consistently throughout the trip and am very glad I did
so. Together with Billy's excellent photos, they provide me with a wonderful
memento of a glorious trip.
I shall be posting entries as I transcribe them. The quality is somewhat mixed
as my writing generally took place in the evenings when I was quite exhausted. A
lot of it is also barely legible so it may be a slow process to get it all
written up. While I am going to have to perform some minor editing of the text,
this is purely to improve the readability of hurried entries. The basic content,
good or bad, should remain essentially the same.
Postings should begin soon, so try to contain your excitement.
Ben
Note: Text in Green is Billy's comments to
the Appalachian Trail Journal.
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Thursday, April 03, 2003
Total Miles: 7.6
Miles: 7.6
Well the start of the trip has mostly gone to plan. Flying to Atlanta was
predictably dull but uneventful. Hotel was mediocre but ok. Bus to Gainesville
was on time. The only hiccups were the result of a chain of events beginning
with finding another hiker on the bus with me. Of course I suggested we share a
cab; and sure, we’ll go with this Hispanic guy waiting at the bus stop. Had I
been on my own, I probably would have hung out in Gainesville until I was sure I
had everything sorted (i.e. gotten fuel, food and posted my summer gear on to
Will). As it was, to cut the story short, I ended up without fuel, but with all
my excess kit and an indifferent selection of cold food bought in a hasty
supermarket dash. As a result, my pack was much heavier than planned for and I
could feel it. However we made it to Springer ok despite a slightly hairy ride
up a forestry road in a ropey Chrysler Neon piloted by our man Sanchez. A brief,
one mile, backtrack brought us to the start of the trail having happily bypassed
the nine-mile approach trail. An easy 7.6miles has brought me to Hawk Mountain
Shelter. Camping out tonight. A lot of people here, as might have been
predicted. I haven’t deemed it necessary to talk to any of them. Seem fine
though, bar one guy who could do with being beaten to death with his own boot.
Seen a couple of fat people hiking, which is always good for morale. One is
overweight AND carrying a seventy-five pound pack. Good luck to him, though I
guess if you have six cans of Spam, you don’t need luck.
Still a little jet lagged having gotten up at 4am, so I am back in ‘bed’ at
6.30pm. Truthfully, the main reason is that I can’t be bothered to talk to the
masses tonight. Perhaps some other time when I am better disposed, probably
after I get rid of my second rucksack of equipment that I really don’t want to
be carrying. That ought to be the day after tomorrow. Got a long (20mile) day
tomorrow, then, the next, I should hit the outfitters at Neal’s Gap. After that
I should have food, fuel, a better camp mat than the pathetic piece of foam I’m
using. My pack should also be 10lb than it is today. The kit all seems to be
working well, though it is hardly being tested by the bone-dry, 80 degree day
we’ve had. Hope it lasts, as I don’t fancy trudging in rain until I’ve settled
into life here again.
Anyway, tired now. Hoping my jet-lag will aid me with an early start tomorrow.
Top of the page
Friday,
April 04, 2003
Total Miles: 26.6
Miles: 19.0
Heard some surprisingly good blues guitar and singing last night. Unfortunately
I had been asleep for half an hour and wanted to hear no singing or playing of
any quality. People were kinda noisy til late – or at least late for me, but
then I did insist ongoing to bed with the sun still high in the sky. Not a great
night’s sleep. My back hurt and wasn’t helped by my inadequate camping mat
arrangement. It is both too narrow and too short, but I can’t really tell if I’m
on it or not – I guess it is too thin as well then. Hopefully, the outfitter
tomorrow will carry some nicer ones.
Was out of camp at 6.15am, which was more a result of waking up early and being
uncomfortable than some irresistible urge to get up and hike. Still, did a
decent job of it if I do say so myself. Walked over twenty miles including
getting to/from shelters and water. Terrain was pretty hilly, but nothing that
bothered me too badly. Passed a lot of people today, many of whom expressed
wonder and awe at my mileage today. Made me feel good, but expect that I shall
be paying for every impressive foot of it come tomorrow. Staying at Woods Hole
Shelter tonight. Had the option to go on another 2.2miles tonight to get to the
next shelter, but it is at the top of a big mountain (highest in Georgia).
Figured I’d call it a day at 3.20pm, which I think is a plenty long day. Going
to sleep in the shelter tonight. It’ll be full, but I got in early and bagsied a
side spot. Eaten already and think I could be in bed even earlier than
yesterday. I have bothered to speak to a few more people today. Some are ok,
though I have met a new person that requires a beating. Just started raining
hard. Glad am in the shelter now.
Top of the page
Saturday, April 05, 2003
Total Miles: 34
Miles: 7.5
Rained very hard last night. Awoke shortly after five, but didn’t even consider
moving until the rain had lessened a little. Set out around 7.15am in moderate
rain. During my ascent of Blood Mountain the rain got heavier and heavier and
there was more than a little lightning. Being at the highest point in the state,
carrying an umbrella in the midst of a lightning storm is not very relaxing.
Waited out the worst of the storm in the shelter at the summit and began my
descent towards Neals Gap. Going down proved to be even worse than going up. The
trail became a not inconsiderable stream over slippery rock. Made it down
without incident and happily entered the outfitters.
Picked up a new sleeping pad (a Z-rest), some fuel, food and a few bits and
pieces. Managed to resist the many shiny attractive and expensive bits of kit on
offer. Now have a Data Book so I can do a better job of planning my stops and
resupplies. Also posted my spare junk back to Will – all nine pounds of it. Pack
feels a lot nicer now. Decided against staying at the hostel at the outfitters.
Legs a little tired and definitely lacking the energy I had yesterday. Days
worked out nicely though. Decided against staying at the next shelter as it is
over a mile off the trail. Instead, picked up water at a spring and hiked until I
found a nice spot to camp. Have excelled myself on that front. Found a beautiful
spot on a peak. It has obviously been used as a campsite in the past. It is nice
and grassy, not far from the trail, but it is over a small rise so it is out of
site. Have an incredible view off to the South-East over the mountains and
foothills. Hardly been a cloud in the sky since lunch and I enjoyed sitting in a
little rocky outcrop eating my mac-and-cheese, watching the birds-of-prey circle
over the valley. Expect I’ll have place to myself tonight, except for these evil
biting fly things. Have just noticed that I’ve caught the sun - hopefully not
too badly.
Am no longer alone: ‘Short-Legs’ and ‘Psycho-Heiko’ have joined me for the
evening. Glad to have someone to talk to as was getting bored trying to make
myself sleep while the Sun was still high. Seem like nice people. Sun down now –
me sleep.
Today I started, my adventure of the Appalachian Trail,
a 2,172.6 mile trail in 2003. My father drove me from our lake house in
South Carolina to the mountains of North Georgia. The car ride entailed
mountain roads that were both unfamiliar to my father and me. It was a
cold rainy morning, and my father had little time for any human errors, for he
had to return to the lake by lunchtime to start cooking for a neighborhood
party. After wrongs turns, and North Georgia College cadets consuming the
road with police escorts on their Saturday morning jog, my father and I made it
to the Amicalola Falls State Park. I signed the register here. The
register asked where I was finishing...I found it hard to write down "Maine".
I just did not want to write "Maine", for the reason- I may not make it there.
I had the intention of hiking all of the Appalachian Trail, however, I was not
willing to tell others how far I was going to hike. The registry book made
me reveal my secret. If asked, I would tell others I was attempting to
hike the entire trail, and for those who did not ask, I did not tell.
Saturday was a cold and rainy morning, and on the 8.8 mile trail to Springer, I
only passed a few hikers, who did not seem to be on the Appalachian Trail for
the long haul. When I got to the top of Springer, there was no view, and
there was an A.T.C. ridge runner taking statistics about hikers on the
Appalachian Trail. Asking questions to fellow hikers about where they were
going, as well as, questions about their Leave No Trace practices on the trail.
I did not want to be a part of the "questionnaire", so I quickly passed and
headed down the trail. Days later, I overheard others commenting about
their encounter at the top of Springer with ridge runner, Gizmo. I would
later have run-ins with this ATC ridge runner. The first nite out had me setting
up my homemade tarp tent and camping away from others.
Top of the page
Sunday,
April 06, 2003
Total Miles: 48.5
Miles: 14.4
Awoke to wonderful sunrise over my fine vista. Got up and hiking for eight
(clocks went forward last night). Had lunch at Low Gap Shelter with my friends
from last night. Seem to hike at a similar pace so expect to see more of them.
Chatted a little with ‘Baltimore Jack’ whom I had met at Neal’s Gap yesterday.
He is on his eighth consecutive thru-hike. He doesn’t look as though he could
hike to the shops mind. Seems to dodge the salad and smokes and drinks a lot as
he hikes. I wasn’t entirely surprised when he pulled up at Blue Mountain Shelter
(where I’m staying the night) and produced a bottle of Jim Beam.
Two British guys showed up tonight. They are doing a big charity event for
Cancer Research (http://www.northamericanchallenge.com/).
They cycled 4000miles across Canada, Kayaked 2000miles and are just finishing a
southbound thru-hike which they have done over winter. Chatted to them for a bit
about the usual sports results etc., then they carried on South.
It is very cold here tonight. The guidebook warns that this shelter is infamous
for the icy wind that blows up out of the valley. It’s not a word of a lie.
Three others are staying in the shelter itself. A woman who was at Wood’s Hole
Shelter - Heiko and I made suggestions of stuff she can dump to lighten her load
- and a father-daughter pair out for the weekend. The daughter is only fourteen,
but is hiking almost as fast as me and carrying a big external frame pack.
I’m considering doing the eighteen miles tomorrow to get to Dicks Creek Gap,
where I can hitch into Hiawassee. Shall see how I feel as there are big hills in
the way. If not, I shall stay at the shelter fifteen miles from here and go in
Tuesday morning. If I do that, Baltimore Jack says he will split a motel room
with me. He looks like he might smell though. We’ll see.
7pm – must be time to try and sleep.
Top of the page
Monday,
April 07, 2003
Total miles: 50.7
Miles: 2.2
Turned out I could hitch into Hiawassee from Unicoi Gap, just 2.2miles from the
shelter. Caught a ride in the back of a an aggressively driven pick-up. Sharing
a room with Baltimore Jack and a pair of brothers from Maine. John and Dennis.
Nice guys. John looks like Jerry Garcia. All smoke constantly. Jack annoyingly
flicks through tv channels, pausing only to hurl abuse at anti-war types in the
news or check out whatever mullet-wearing cracker spawn are on CMT. Had dinner
at Daniel’s Steakhouse. Didn’t have steak, just the ‘salad bar’. Fried chicken
is salad here, so I got a decent meal for $8. back at the room now, where we are
watching a fine comedy-western with Mel Gibson. Some of Jack’s acquaintances
were at dinner. They are true hardcore trail types like him. They all seemed to
have strong opinions about various trail-related matters. Fascinating. Hoping
for an early start tomorrow to make up the ground lost today. Oh good the CMT
awards are on. Kill me.
Top of the page
Tuesday, April 08, 2003
Total miles: 63.3
Miles: 12.6
Didn’t sleep too well last night. Not sure why as was comfortable enough in bed
and peoples’ snoring could have been worse. Haven’t slept well all trip – must
need more exercise. Got up at eight-thirtyish. Had a pleasant continental
breakfast at the hotel and set off to the post office. Mailed home some bits and
pieces I haven’t been using. Took a while to catch a hitch back to the trail.
Eventually a guy in a beat up Beretta stopped for me. Very nice guy. He fits
vinyl sidings to houses for a living. Had a pleasant chat about game shooting.
Back on trail at nine-forty. Stopped for lunch at Tray Mountain Shelter after
hauling myself up a couple of long climbs. Had some of the ‘flatbread’ I bought
at the supermarket. To my deep joy, it is exactly the same as nan bread. Weather
alternated between drizzling and pouring. Not very inspiring. Finally arrived at
Deep Cut Gap Shelter after another long hard climb. Was soaking wet and cold.
Ate a good meal of whole meal pasta with olive oil, garlic, green chilies and
parmesan. Hungry for more now. A few section hikers are here tonight. Only
thru-hiker is a guy called Charles, whom I met on Springer Mountain. Young guy
in his 3rd year of an english literature degree. He’s up on the second storey of
this fancy shelter with me. Have been talking books, music, university etc.
The bad weather is set to last to the end of the week at least, with night time
temperatures forecast to fall to around freezing. Have a choice of fifteen or
twenty miles tomorrow. Guess I will play it by ear. Weather may be the decider.
Twenty-one is not out of the question as I am feeling really good out on the
trail. Moving faster than everyone I’ve seen and the hills are not causing me
any problems. Downhills are the only issue – wet rocks and slippery mud making
life hard.
Top of the page
Wednesday,
April 09, 2003
Total
Miles: 78.4
Miles:15.1
Yesterday’s deep joy at finding delicious, life-giving nan was transformed into
deep hatred of rodent-kind upon discovering that mice had eaten all my bread
during the night. Weather hasn’t really improved much. Remains damp and cool.
Visibility hasn’t risen above fifty yards for days. Crossed the first state
boundary of the trip. I am now in North Carolina. As soon as the border is
crossed, one is confronted with a series of evil uphill slogs. Had to pause a
couple of times.
At Muskrat Creek Shelter tonight, though it is full so I am tarping outside.
This will be the first test of the tarp in the rain – nothing like good
preparation. Lot of people here tonight. Not sure I care for all of them. They
sound as though they are a lot slower than me though, so should shake them off
soon. Tomorrow is likely to be another tough day. There is a big two mile climb
up to Standing Indian Mountain. Really want to do the nineteen to Big Spring
Shelter. That will put me handily to do a mini-resupply at Rainbow Springs
Campground. They allegedly have internet access there, which would be very
welcome.
Top of the page
Thursday,
April 10, 2003
Total Miles:
90.9
Miles: 12.5
Well, if I was poorly prepared as far as rain-testing was concerned, it was
nothing compared to how poorly prepared I was for the snow-storm I awoke to this
morning. My bag got a little wet on one side in the night. The tarp worked fine,
mostly, but some small puddles formed outside and as big drops fell into them,
surprisingly far-reaching splashes were produced, covering me and most of my
possessions in a wet, muddy film.
Hiked on through the snow, which was fine, but slippy. Worst part of it was
dodging the snow-laden branches and trees that leaned onto the trail under the
weight. When I made it to the shelter, I was soaked. I foolishly had worn all my
clothes because it was so cold, and thus had no dry clothes. Genius. Arrived at
two-thirtyish and spent from then until now (seven pm) trying to get warmer and
dryer. Ate a couple of hot meals and made a few hot water bottles. Am in my bag
with two of them now. Also have my survival blanket wrapped around me. Hopefully
shall survive the night.
Still very cold and I expect it will get colder as night falls. Am either going
on to the campground or town tomorrow. People at this shelter are nice. Met some
of them before. One works for Corning, designing oscillators for SDH/SONET type
stuff.
Forgot to write yesterday that I saw in the register that ‘E-Z-Does-It’, a hiker
we met last year, is just a few days ahead on another thru-hike. He is a retired
prison guard from New Jersey. I have witnessed people hike on an extra eight
miles at dusk to avoid him. Joy.
Top of the page
Friday, April 11, 2003
Total Miles:103.7
Miles:12.8
Well, I awoke, which is something. Didn’t actually sleep as badly as I have
done. Some mirth in the night as people fought-off pillaging mice. Corninig
bloke struck one that was on his food bag, launching it the length of the
shelter.
Was up and out by eight. Fifteen minutes down the trail, I realised that ‘d left
my sleeping bag back at the shelter. Joy as I got to walk that stretch back to
the shelter and out again. Got close to the campground at about two-twenty. En
route there was more snow trudging. Was around freezing when I got up, but a
little after nine the sun finally popped out and the weather has got steadily
better since. Had to ascend Albert Mountain. It involved a gradual two mile
climb, then half a mile of steep, steep clambering. That was ok. Worst part of
the walk was fighting through snow-laden rhododendrons that blocked the trail
for about a mile. Each deposited snow and ice about my person in a most
unpleasant manner.
As I neared the campground, a guy in a pick-up full of hikers stopped and I
jumped in the back. Lots of people were heading into Franklin, so I went in too.
The guy drove us the twelve miles for $5 a head. Staying in the Microtel (think
Travel-Tavern) with two guys I met yesterday at the shelter. We went out and got
Maccy-D’s, did laundry and went food shopping. Might go and get a bit more to
eat in a minute. Truck guy is picking us up at nine am to take us back to the
trail.
Top of the page
Saturday,
April 12, 2003
Total
Miles:123.0
Miles: 19.3
A very good day. Up early after a decent night’s sleep. Scott, Vagabond and I
then went for breakfast at Shoney’s. AYCE bacon, sausage, eggs, pancakes etc -
cheap and cheerful. As usual at American breakfast buffets, I attempted to forge
a ‘breakfast bap’ using the closest thing I can find to bread – in this case it
was ‘biscuits’, and as usual, it was less than pleasant. I really must stop
trying. Finally managed to phone home. I had to get a new calling card after
using my $10 up on reaching answer phones. Didn’t have time to try Will again
though – maybe tomorrow at NOC.
Late start on the trail (nine-forty), but kept a good pace in the perfect
weather on moderate trail. I think most people stopped around fifteen miles in
and camped. Passed Steamer and two Wellesley College girls, now called the
‘Rock-Stars’. Met couple of new people too. A guy called ‘Shankadelic’, who was
‘chilling’ in the sun all afternoon, and also Billy with whom I walked for the
last part of the afternoon. He is doing similar miles to me and I get the
impression he wants someone to walk with. Seems to be even less of a people
person than me, so we get on fine. He also makes his own kit and is obviously a
big fan of the Jardine book. We shall see if he turns out to be a psycho or not.
If he’s ok, it would be good to have company.
We walked a little past the (slightly skanky) shelter, which I had no intention
of staying in as ‘Rumbler’ was there. Anyone who has gained a trail-name based
on the voracity of his snoring is not someone I wish to stay with. Stopped at a
nice enough little spot and are both tarping. Billy has a fine hand-crafted
luxury tarp. I am experimenting with mine to find a more effective way of
pitching it. Got twelve miles into NOC tomorrow. Apparently you can get a good
lunch there. It is then seven to the next shelter.
Forgot – saw my first bobcat on the trail today. Mottled grey thing with a short
tail. Wasn’t unduly frightened by my presence, just calmly trotted off ahead of
me.
Today I met Ben. I have been passing
other fellow hikers along the way. The only hiker that was hiking the same
daily distance as myself, was CloudWalker. We met a few times at nite
around shelters, as I had to interact with others, because this was my place of
water for most nites. I, however, was ahead of CloudWalker at this point,
because he and others had stayed in town because a snow storm had come, and was
still present. I had heard about Ben along the way. I seem to be the
only one carrying an umbrella. So when people started asking general
questions, they would point out that there was a guy in front of me from Britain
who was hiking lite, and carrying an umbrella. That afternoon, prior to
reaching Wayah Bald, on an ascent, I came up behind a hiker heading north. This guy
did not seem to want to let me pass. All others had no problems with
letting me pass. Occasionally, I may have gotten a sly remark about my pace, but I
was not one to ask others to move over. Soon Ben let me pass, but then he
continued to walk my pace. I thought, "what is this guy doing?". I
think I even asked if he wanted to pass me back. I started talking to him about
gear and the trail. I am sure he was a little frightened about how much I knew
regarding him. When Ben stopped just shy of Wayah Bald to collect some water,
I continued on. As I was taking photographs from atop the stone
observation tower, Ben came up. Shankadelic was already present at the
tower, chillin' in the sun. He told Ben and I his story about how he got
to the Appalachian Trail. Ben and I soon hiked on. Before nitetfall,
Ben and I passed Cold Spring Shelter, a dingy shelter. I told Ben I was
not going to stay in the shelter since someone else was there. He noted
about the hiker's known characteristics. We collected water, and then we
left.
Top of the page
Sunday,
April 13, 2003
Total Miles:
141.0
Miles: 18.0
Another fine day. Excellent weather again, though a cold night (30s). Hiked a
brisk twelve miles into the NOC to be there for twelve-thirty. Phoned home again
and tried Will without success. The centre is on the river, which has some good
white-water rafting. Bought some thermal underwear at the outfitter (to replace
the set I had already shipped home) in preparation for the Smokey Mountains.
Also got some food, fuel and, finally, a lighter (my matches haven’t worked for
days).
Billy and I had lunch at the restaurant there. Probably the best food of the
trip so far – fries and burger topped with chilli, cheese and bacon. Squeezed in
a huge brownie and ice-cream for dessert too – all for $15 with tip. Left NOC
bloated. Bumped into the guys I had met the other night. They were all staying
the night at the centre. All gave me warnings about the steep uphill section out
of the valley, which I chose to roundly ignore. Six miles and over 3000 vertical
feet, I had barely kept my lunch down. Would have been a hard climb at the best
of times, but quite evil with the mass of undigested food in my gut desperately
trying to park itself by the trailside.
Staying in Sassafras Gap Shelter tonight. It’s a very nice two-storey one.
Sharing with a father-daughter combo out for spring-break. Billy is working out
to be a good person to walk with. He is a little faster than me uphill and a
little slower than me back down. I have attributed this to the fact that we are
similar height, but he is 50lb lighter than me. Got another twenty miler
tomorrow to get us to Fontana Dam. Should be easier than today.
Top of the page
Monday, April 14, 2003
Total Miles: 161.7
Miles: 20.7
This good weather is getting a bit much. It is too hot and I’m sweating and
gulping water like Will at his best [Will is a very sweaty man when hiking]. The
easy day I predicted never arrived. There was a lot of up and down, much of it
uncomfortably steep. Still, made very good progress, especially considering we
set off at eight-forty and were done by five pm. Passed a lot of people today.
Seems to be more and more hikers recently, which is weird.
When we got near Fontana there was a handy information board with all the info
about accommodation – double room at motel was $31. Bingo. There was even a free
phone to a free shuttle. Our shuttle, piloted by true Southern Gal Charity,
arrived promptly and took us to the complex.
The Fontana Village Resort is just plain weird to me. I shan’t even try to
describe it here. Billy and I took our leave of Chastity (as I embarrassingly
called her by mistake) and checked in. The room is a lot better than you might
expect for £10/person. Quickly showered and headed to the $10 AYCE buffet. Lots
of chicken, beef stew, rice and salad - a bargain. Tomorrow I shall hopefully
get to use their internet connection and finally mail everyone. Went to the
games room and played pool, table tennis and, best of all, Iron Man Stewart’s
Super Off-Road Racing.
Top of the page
Tuesday,
April 15, 2003
Total Miles: 176.6
Miles: 14.9
Awoke after a very good night’s sleep in a comfy bed. Took a half-zero day. Ate
at the burger buffet and got plenty in me. Finally, got to use the internet and
email. Didn’t get back on trail until three pm. Got to look at and walk over the
dam, which I liked – being an enthusiast for big, obsolete pieces of machinery.
Two miles on we entered the park. Planned to do an ambitious 10.9 miles to the
first shelter, skipping the campsite. There had been a lot of talk about the
climb out of Fontana – 5 miles and 3000ft of it – but it turned out to be
nowhere near the ordeal of climbing out from NOC. Had an incredible view from
the top of a fire-tower on a mountain. Finally got to the shelter to find it,
and the surrounding area, heaving with people – maybe twenty in all. I might
have stayed had I been alone, but Billy likes people even less than I do, so we
went on to the next shelter – another 2.5 miles. It was getting dark as we
arrived. We’ve eaten and decided to eschew cover for the night and sleep under
the stars. This may be very good or very foolish.
Top of the page
Wednesday, April 16, 2003
Total Miles: 187.0
Miles: 16.4
Sleeping uncovered turned out to be a wise decision. Not chancing it tonight
though. Staying in a shelter. Billy and I have had to lie at an angle on the
sleeping platform as it is not built for people over six foot. Not much
excitement to report. Going remains steadily tough. Got Clingman’s Dome tomorrow
morning. After that, it gets a little easier. Had some beautiful views today at
Rocky Top.
Turns out the shelter we’re staying in was the place that two hikers were killed
by lightning in the Eighties. Can’t say I’m worried though. Hunger has gotten
progressively worse since the beginning of the trip. I must be losing weight.
Billy’s mother is meeting him on Sunday. I’ve been invited to go to dinner with
them - sounds good to me.
Top of the page
Thursday, April 17, 2003
Total Miles: 197.8
Miles: 10.8
We had every intention of doing a 20+mile day today. (Un)fortunately events
conspired to drag us into Gatlinburg for the night. We had toyed with the idea
of hitching in for lunch, but we were undecided. However, when we reached a
car-park around lunch-time and were offered a ride within seconds, our minds
were made up. Some former thru-hikers were doing ‘trail-magic’, giving rides and
free sodas and we just had to let them drop us off at their choice of pizza
place. We both ordered 16” pizzas (mine a double-anchovy beasty) and got some
garlic rolls to boot.
It quickly became apparent that we would never be able to hike another 11 miles
with our guts full of cheese, dough and pungent fish. Got our (few) leftovers
wrapped to go and headed for the cheapest motel in town ($37 the double). Had a
pleasant afternoon watching Flight of the Phoenix and eating bowls of Frosties.
Sent some time discussing plans for our own wood burning cook-stove. We hope to
build one as a project on the trail.
Picked up a book left at the shelter – John D MacDonald – seems good. Think
Raymond Chandler in Fort Lauderdale. The introduction by Carl Hiaasen sold me.
Top of the page
Friday, April 18, 2003
Total Miles: 221.9
Miles: 24.1
Late start back on the trail. We were slow getting going and it was a tough
hitch. Eventually, a slightly rough couple from Ohio stopped their Taurus and
let us in. At ten-forty we were walking on from Newfound Gap. Made good time -
aiming for a shelter. Finally rolled in at eight-thirty – just as it was getting
dark and having walked 23 miles. The place was rammed. Shelter full and all the
designated tent sites gone. Decided to hike on and stealth camp. Pitched Billy’s
tarp off the trail at Low Gap. It’s a hilly site, but at least it isn’t crowded.
Tomorrow we should be out of the park. I’ll be glad - although it is beautiful
here, it will be nice to return to the relative freedom outside of its rules and
crowds.
Finally saw E-Z-Does-It today. He is the same.
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Saturday, April 19, 2003
Total Miles: 244.7
Miles: 16.8
A long downhill section took us out of the park. We passed several horses on the
way. No idea how they are going to pass some of the wind fallen trees blocking
the trail that were difficult for us to climb under. Once out, we had a three
(non-AT) mile round trip to Mountain Momma’s Kuntry Kitchen. Had cheeseburgers
and Freedom-fries (the same as French fries, but anti-french feeling is running
that high out here). All good. Got some food to last us until tomorrow when
Billy’s parents can take us to the stores.
Had a long uphill slog in oppressive heat to get out of the gap. Another of
these 3000ft in five mile jobs. Passed some of the time discussing the AT hiking
[computer] game I must write when I get home. It’ll take 5-months to play and
feature lots of animation stolen from Hyper-Sports.
Some beautiful scenery again today. Was nice to have some greenery when we were
down at low level – the trees in the mountains are still bare. Together with all
the dead leaves on the ground, it gives an autumnal feel at odds with the 80
degree heat.
Tonight we are camping out without cover. Fingers crossed on the weather…
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Sunday,
April 20, 2003
Total Miles: 256.2
Miles: 11.5
Weather fine as usual. Plenty of climbing this morning to get to Max Patch Road.
Billy’s father was waiting on the trail for us. Both his parents are extremely
nice. They took us out to Hot Springs for lunch. I had deep fried chicken
livers.
Town had a good outfitter. I changed my tent pegs and rope for lighter stuff at
a total cost of $15. Bumped into the guy I shared a cab with to the trail. He is
now hiking along with Heiko and another guy I met at Springer.
Billy’s parents had kindly brought us enough food that we didn’t need to
resupply. Billy received an Easter basket of goodies (for it is Easter). Seemed
to be a high Disney content. Guess he must like that stuff.
They dropped us back at the trail after a scenic drive through rural North
Carolina – a lot of buildings in ruins, but looks pleasant enough. We hiked the
mile to the summit of Max Patch to find Billy’s father waiting for us again.
It’s very nice up there – a grassy, open summit, obviously popular with locals.
People were paragliding, or whatever its is called – fancy hang-gliding – and
landscape painting, picnicking or just enjoying the view (not all at the same
time sadly).
Said another farewell to Billy’s father and hiked on to the shelter to find it
horribly busy. Got water and went on a few minutes more to this nice camp spot.
Staying in Billy’s tarp again. He ditched his hiking poles earlier, which he had
been using solely to support his tarp. There’s more space in here without them.
Back to Hot Springs tomorrow.
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Monday,
April 21, 2003
Total Miles: 270.9
Miles: 14.7
Awoke at 6.30am by rain. We had the awning of the tarp open so had to adjust.
Had rain on and off all morning. Not enough to bother us with putting up our
umbrellas. Made good time with just a couple of short breaks, one of which was
at a most weather–exposed privy I have ever enjoyed – I regretted not taking my
umbrella.
The motel in town was, irritatingly, shut. The owners had gone on vacation and
shut-up shop. We’re staying at the Bridge Street Café instead. It’s mostly a
restaurant, but they do B&B too. Sadly they’re not doing breakfast tomorrow. The
restaurant is only open Thursday-Sunday, which is a shame as it looks especially
good.
Spent a long time doing laundry – Billy really doesn’t like dirty clothes. Ate
at the pub – service courtesy of an ever-smiling, yet oh-so-surly waitress. I had
1.5lb of baby-back ribs, which were so-so. We were distraught upon leaving to
discover all the stores shut and ourselves unable to buy our usual bedtime
snacks/milk/beer. However, in a flash of inspiration, Billy remembered a
campground store down the road – we got there just in time to fulfill our
requirement – a six-pack of Bud for me, milk for Billy (he doesn’t drink).
Have checked our resupply plans up to Damascus. Got a 3-5 day stretch next.
Might settle down with my book and beer now – life remains good.
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Tuesday, April 22, 2003
Total Miles: 282.5
Miles: 11.6
Spent morning finishing off laundry, sending stuff on to Will, and buying
buying/eating breakfast. No chance to get on the internet at the outfitter – you
have to book it and it was jammed until 4pm. Had good lunch at the diner –
double cheeseburger and fries, followed by apple pie with ice cream and coffee.
Headed out of town a little after 3pm. Are supplied up to Erwin, TN 3-5 days. I
am carrying 12 donuts to sort me out for breakfasts. Also discovered I was
carrying 2 cans of beer I had failed to dispose of before leaving town.
Had two beer and donut breaks on the trail. Made it to the shelter at dusk to
find it full – this is becoming a recurring theme. There were some tent sites
left, but they were too exposed to the icy wind that howled in over the hills.
We elected to hike on to find a more sheltered spot. Have ended up in a not too
bad spot. Still a little windy, but it was a trade-off between wind protection and
ground flatness. Billy isn’t feeling too good tonight – his stomach is playing
up. It’s cold tonight. Glad I just sent home cold-weather stuff – again.
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Wednesday, April 23, 2003
Total Miles: 303.1
Miles: 20.6
Cold morning delayed our start until 10.30. Typically, my legs were cold in the
night. A fine decision to send home my tights. At least I have got rid of enough
stuff to fit my sleeping pad inside my pack. I look quiet the sleek hiking
machine now. Fairly uneventful day today. A couple of great views of the
foothills and plains. Hunger is a problem at the moment. Just seem to be able to
eat and eat. Wishing I’d bought a little more food.
Staying in Flint Mountain Shelter tonight. Couple of section hikers here – one
of which used to play soccer with Billy’s uncle. Guy we met in town is here too.
He’s called ‘Pez’
Clear sky, lots of stars – so bound to be cold.
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Thursday, April 24, 2003
Total Miles: 325.3
Miles: 22.1
Out at 10 this morning. Time went fast today. Hunger was terrible the whole way.
Some big climbs in the afternoon. Billy tells me I’m going up them faster now.
Probably true, I feel a little fitter and am hauling a little less weight, one
way or another.
Tonight we are spending a lot of time debating whether we should stop the night
in Erwin. Doubtless we will, but we are debating nonetheless.. They have AYCE
Mexican food and the Super 8 has laundry. Sounds like heaven. They even have a
library, which probably means internet.
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Saturday, April 26, 2003
Total Miles: 338.8 / 355.3
Miles: 13.5 / 16.5
Forgot to write my journal yesterday. Must have been too cozy and full of pizza
in the Super 8. Got to Erwin by noon. Phoned the Super 8 from the outfitters.
Within minutes, comedy asian people had come and collected us in a lovely
Mercury Grand Marquis. Had lunch at the Sonic in town. It’s a fast food place
designed exclusively for drive-thru. We had to give our order over speaker-phone
and sit outside. Had a good shop in the Food Lion, and Billy got to post some
more stuff back. The library was good – 7 computers! Ordered pizza to the motel
and watched a terrible film about a hijacked plane full of priceless works of
art. Phoned Will – he was drunk. Neither Billy nor I could sleep so we ended up
watching a fly-on-the-wall documentary about guys who make custom motorcycles.
Finally slept at 2am.
Today got out of room at 11am and checked out. There was a minibus waiting
outside that turned out be be ‘Miss Janet’s’. She was extremely nice (living up
to her trail-legend status) and was happy to give us a ride to the trail. Back
on trail at noon.
Some sun, some rain – well, rather more rain than sun. Not much visibility
towards the end – just walking in mist. Shelter full as usual when we got there
at 8pm. Tarping out again.
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Sunday,
April 27, 2003
Total Miles: 375.1
Miles: 19.8
Very hard day terrain-wise. Morning had reasonable ups and downs, but the
afternoon’s ascent of Roan Mountain was a toughie – 2000ft in 2.5miles. I was
sweating like a faucet. The views have more than made up for the expended effort
though.
Visited the highest shelter on the AT (6275ft), but are staying at Stan Murray
Shelter, which has just two other occupants.
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Monday, April 28, 2003
Total Miles: 393.8
Miles: 18.7
Nice easy hike to US 19. At the road we finally met the two English girls we’d
been hearing about. After several minutes chat with Felicity and Foxy we set
about trying to hitch to Elk Park for a resupply. We were quickly picked up by a
lady in a convertible Mustang. She drove us to the grocery store at an admirable
pace.
We decided to leave shopping until after lunch and walked half a mile to the
Times Square Restaurant. It wasn’t very good, but it was cheap. We returned to
the store to discover there was no cash machine in town and they didn’t take
plastic. Thankfully a friend of the owner was happy to drive us the 12 mile
round trip to the next town.
It is evilly hot today. We’re staying the night at a very crowded camp spot,
having arrived late as usual. Met a guy called Overshot who is attempting to
hike the trail in 3 months. Trail relocation in the area means that the trail is
two miles longer than advertised and as such we don’t really know where we are.
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Tuesday, April 29, 2003
Total Miles: 414.2
Miles: 20.4
Up and out before 8am. Feels claustrophobic here – too many people and kind of
marshy with no views. Stopped at a shelter for a break and idled about there for
some time in the occasional sun. Finally got up and headed on to the road and
get a second lunch at the Laurel Fork Hostel. Had good burgers, severed to us by
friendly owner John, before heading outside to lounge in the sun some more.
Eventually we got ourselves moving around 5.30 to knock off the last 6 miles. We
hadn’t expected the very sudden change of scenery that awaited us. Now all was
rocky canyons and white-water. Stopped and larked about at some nice falls for a
while, then had an evil 1800ft climb to get here. It was so steep at times that I
got back ache. Got a good spot just off the trail where two other guys are
staying. They’ve got a good fire going and we are sleeping under the stars yet
again – our luck is held up to now…
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Wednesday, April 30, 2003
Total Miles: 25.4
Miles: 439.6
Out by 8am again – this time encouraged by the thought of a second breakfast at
Hampton. We got to the road in an hour and managed to get a hitch in minutes
with a woman in a double-cab pick-up. She was good enough to let us ride up front and even gave us a critique of local diners.
The first diner we went in didn’t look overjoyed to see us – the waitress looked
at us disapprovingly and informed us that they weren’t serving that morning. We
took this as a snub and headed next door to enjoy a truly excellent meal. I had
the ‘Grandpa Special’ – three eggs, sausage, fried apples, and two vast
pancakes. I washed it down with lots of coffee then went shopping at the Dollar
General opposite. It was a surprisingly good place to resupply – though I am not
sure about my wisdom in buying a tin of smoked oysters from a shop with the same
fast-food cachet as Pound Stretcher. Got a hitch back to the trail in the back
of a single-cab.
The trail wound its way around the circumference of a big lake, which had picnic
areas, swimming areas, etc, so we hung out there in the sun for a while. Just as
we were getting truly comfortable, thunderstorms blew in. We started back
walking at 2pm and have mostly been walking since. Billy had the crazy notion of
us getting to Damascus by walking all night, but we are instead stopping at
11.30 and sleeping under the stars. It is a good night for it as there are still
some storms in the distance periodically lighting up the sky.
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Thursday, May 01, 2003
Total Miles: 458.9
Miles: 19.3
Knocked off the miles by 2pm – this meant that we had walked 42 miles in 24
hours. Feet were very sore by the time we had finished the descent into
Damascus.
The town is nice, though without the choice of lodging we’d like. We ended up in
a B&B run by Miss Suzy, a lady from Georgia. She is very Southern and very
friendly. She drove us to get some Bar-B-Q. I had never truly understood what is
meant by ‘southern Bar-B-Q’ until Billy enlightened me. In essence, it is smoked
shredded pork in Bar-B-Q sauce to be eaten in rolls. The sauce varies with
region, some using vinegar, others mustard. It was served with excellent baked
beans that were more meat than pulse, and some good ‘slaw. We got email and
laundry done. Tomorrow we shall tackle the outfitters, grocery store and
anything else that comes to mind.
Spent time chatting to Pez and a guy called SPG, who was possibly the World’s
Gayest Hiker. He is designing his own range of fashion hiking clothing and
showed more earnest interest in the contents of Vanity Fair than any man should.
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Friday,
May 02, 2003
Total Miles: 468.3
Miles: 9.4
Had a fine breakfast of bacon, eggs, grits, pancakes, melon, strawberries and
kiwi at the B&B. Went to the outfitter and took the plunge with a new pack. I am
now the proud owner of a Golite Breeze. It weighs just 10oz, but carries my (now
very small) load fine. All my possessions now weigh less than 10lbs, 20 with
food and water. Held off buying new shoes – mine are still just about ok. Ate at
an Italian place and had calzone. A thunderstorm broke the perfect weather, so
we took refuge in an ice cream place and ordered huge sundaes and coffee.
We set out some time after six and reached the shelter in the dark.. Only two
people in the shelter, but we don’t want to wake them so are sleeping out again.
The trees are dripping on us, so it may not be the best idea. Plans are working
out for getting to Will’s. We shall be picked up by Billy’s friend Nicky on
Tuesday. We’re staying in Atlanta Tuesday night then I’m taking the Greyhound to
Savannah.
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Saturday, May 03, 2003
Total Miles: 487.3
Miles: 19.0
Trees dripped on us all night so am a little damp this morning. Sluggish start
then stopped at a shelter for lunch and to chat with Overshot and Cloudwalker,
whom we know better than most out here. Thunderstorms were coming in so we
decided to wait them out at the shelter. We both had naps and got out late
again., meaning we are camping in the dark again. Tarping amongst a large crowd
of what can only be described as weekend-hiker-douche bags.
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Sunday, May 04, 2003
Total Miles: 506.0
Miles: 18.7
Awoke among weekend-hiker-douche bags. A late start out, but enjoyed listening
to the WHDs talking amongst themselves. Loads of people out at this popular
state park as it’s the weekend and mostly sunny.
Nice easy hiking here, though the ground is hard on the feet. Lots of pleasant
scenery and big rocks and boulders to climb around on. Tomorrow we head into
Troutdale for food.
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Monday,
May 05, 2003
Total Miles: 508.0
Miles: 2
Billy woke me at six to inform me that it had started raining and as such it
might be a good time to get moving. We quickly hiked the two miles to the road
an began hitching. The rain never let up and it was cold. Most of what little
traffic there was happened to be dump trucks that covered us in spray as they
thundered by. It took 45 minutes of hungry frustration before a slightly scary
guy in a pick-up stopped for us.
Troutdale seemed to consist of a single diner/grocery store primarily. The place
looked less than beautiful inside, but the food was good and plentiful. I had 4
eggs, 4 toast, 2 pancakes and plenty of coffee. Billy ended up with an obscene
two plates of food – one a huge mass of biscuits and gravy. Over breakfast we
came to the conclusion that getting off the trail a day early may not be such a
bad idea.
Billy made the necessary arrangements with Nicky to get us picked up ASAP (230)
and we killed as much time as seemed reasonable at the diner before heading
out to check out the hiker hostelling facilities at the church. The planned
hostel is not yet complete, but there was a pavilion where we could shelter from
the rain for a couple of hours. We headed back to the diner for lunchtime
burgers and afterwards settled on the porch with ice cream to await Nicky. She
duly arrived in a brand new Honda Civic, greatly exciting Honda enthusiast
Billy. Nicky is an extremely nice girl – somewhat more outgoing and people
friendly than Billy.
Our request for an early pick-up had thrown a spanner into the works of her
preparation for the Florida triathlon. She drove us to Winston-Salem (after a
couple of hours meandering, lost, through Virginia) as she had to attend a
meeting. Throughout the journey, Billy and Nicky bickered near constantly – this
seems to be the norm for them. While Nicky planned triathlons, Billy and I went
to the mall. We were delighted to find silicon-impregnated bags and
sweet-looking umbrella in the dollar-store. We couldn’t stay in Winston-Salem as
the TV weather girl with whom Nicky lives was sick. We did take showers and do
laundry there though as Nicky didn’t fancy the prospect of sharing a confined
space with us for a few more hours, reeking of the trail as we were. After
loading the car with masses of luggage and bikes, we headed to Charlotte to
spend the night with Nicky’s very hospitable family. The next day
we finally made it back to Atlanta, with only one minor road accident to show
for ourselves. We did some more shopping in Atlanta and I finally replaced my
shoes with some New Balance 806s to match Billy’s. Spent a pleasant night at
Billy’s family home then headed over to the Greyhound station in the morning.
The locale of the bus station – as in all American cities – was truly
terrifying. I am now on my merry way to Savannah and the one-man-party that is
Will.
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Sunday,
May 18, 2003
Total Miles: 512.0
Miles: 4
First day (hour and a half anyway) back on the trail after our lengthy break.
Felt strange getting back on and was reluctant to wave goodbye to Nicky (and her
car) earlier. However, am already feeling back home here, especially now we are
housed in our new ultra-roomy 10'x12' tarp. Some angelic soul had even left a
cooler of beer by the trail to ease my pain.
Doubtless, our time off
could have been spent more productively than it was, but it was fun nonetheless.
Billy's and Nicky's families were hospitable to a fault and all fine people. I
got to meet one of Billy's cousins from Baltimore who's letchery and humour kept
me entertained. From Atlanta I took a Greyhound bus to Savannah. While waiting
for the bus, I made the mistake of going for a wander around the neighbourhood.
Within moments, I was deep in Cracktown with toothless prostitutes leering at me
and me feeling like a big pink target with my swim-shorts, floppy hat and
backpack. Savannah was of course fun - it is always fun around Will. We drank
plenty of PBR and ate too many Krispy Kreme donuts. I spent the time Will was at
work enchanted by his Nintendo. For reasons that still elude me, we also ended
up volunteering at the Savannah Highland Games. I discovered that no amount of
homesickness can make you eat a scotch pie.
Anyway, back on the trail now
and have to stop writing as the bugs are gonna drive me insane so long as I
have this light on.
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Monday, May 19, 2003
Total Miles: 535.9
Miles: 23.9
Surprisingly chilly last night, which at least gave Billy's new sleeping bag an
early test. Not out til after ten. Went by the very nice Partnership shelter -
it has hot and cold running water, a shower and an odour-free concrete privy. It
is also only 100yds from a ranger station with snack shop. There is even a
phone, and pizza hut will deliver. Sadly we weren't staying there. We did stop
for dinner in the Dairy Queen at a truck stop on I81. This was a mistake. The
food was nasty and we didn't really need it. It is now not agreeing with Billy's
stomach awfully well. We're tarping a mile or so before the shelter - mostly due
to Billy's need to make an emergency khasi-stop.
Easy hiking today with
nice terrain. Got a few more hills tomorrow though. Met an english guy earlier -
he was obvious due to his stack of inappropriate British-style kit. He
worryingly failed to spot my accent as British. I hope I haven't spent so long
with Billy now that I talk like him.
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Tuesday, May 20, 2003
Total Miles: 555.3
Miles: 19.4
Out early. Terrain was surprisingly tough today. Got a little past the half-way
point and decided to take a nap to allow lunch to settle. Slept from 3 til 5 then
had to get up and tackle a steep hill. Was far too groggy to consider enjoying
that.
Camping on top of the hill with a fine view of a ridge in front of us. A huge
spotlight periodically sweeps the sky. Very tired and still hungry after dinner.
Top of the page
Wednesday, May 21, 2003
Total Miles: 575.6
Miles: 20.3
Not our greatest day. Awoke at 0030 to the sound of rain. Awoke again at 0230
when the tarp collapsed. We ran around in the rain, half-asleep, trying to
resurrect what, in hindsight, was a shoddy erection of sticks and nylon, secured
ineffectually by rotten slivers of wood. A further collapse at 0600 and
persistent leaking from the unsealed ridge-seam conspired to give us a wretched
night's sleep. Thoroughly demoralised, we didn't strike camp until 12.
We had stopped early the night before because we were sleepy and believed the
shelter to be several miles away. Imagine our joy at discovering that the
shelter had been only 30 minutes easy hiking away the entire time. To make
matters worse, it was a particularly nice one and looked to have been empty the
previous night. Discovered that during the night's activities, my container of
parmesan exploded, covering everything in my food bag with damp grated, pungent
cheese. Everything smells of feet /vomit now. I also broke the nose-piece of my
glasses, so now a sharp piece of metal is jagging into my nose.
It drizzled constantly until 6pm. Hiking was a chore and I felt lethargic. We had
set out too late to get to Bland as planned. This was bad enough, but we didn't
really have much food for an extra night. It was all rather disheartening. After
six though, the weather perked up. The trail crossed a single creek twelve
(twelve!) times in the space of 2 miles. It involved lots of jumping from
boulder to slippery boulder to wobbly rock. Tricky stuff. I have no idea how
(even) less athletic people get across. I can only assume they get
wet.
Our mood improved further when we got some trail magic - bottles of
ice cold apple juice left by the same guy who had left the beer on Sunday night.
We are sleeping out 3 miles from Bland Road. The water we were expecting to find
on the way here never arrived, so we don't have enough even to cook what little
food we have left. We are nonetheless buoyant at the prospect of a town
breakfast. Looking forward to reaching Pearisburg on Saturday to stay the night
and eat a lot of pizza.
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Thursday, May 22, 2003
Total Miles: 591.8
Miles: 16.2
Our luck mostly got better. It didn't rain on us in the night and the hike to
the road was easy. It only took 7 minutes waiting at the road for a guy to stop
and let us into the back of his pick-up. Upon exiting the vehicle, the owner's
dog leapt from the cab, ran round and bit me on the rear. Only my pride, my
shorts and my arse were injured. It really did hurt and if the guy hadn't just
done us a favour, I may have beaten his dog to within an inch with my umbrella.
I'll need o sew up the gaping hole in my shorts sometime.
Bland didn't have the rich variety bustling restaurants and cafes I'd dreamed of during my
enforced fast. We ended up eating at a Dairy Queen again. Their breakfast is
marginally better than McD's. The supermarket in town was pretty good. We bought
their entire stock of pre-packaged Bar-B-Q pork. Got a lift back to the trail
with a young guy, probably drunk and/or high. He was a friendly
idiot.
The rest of the afternoon went fine, for me at least. Billy is
still not best friends with his digestive system. Ate Bar-B-Q sandwiches for
dinner. Very nice indeed. Would have been better if it had been in 'red-sauce'.
This was Virginia style with slaw and vinegar. Good, but not as good. We've got the same again for lunch
tomorrow.
We are tarping again. This time we have created a beautiful and
robust shelter of kingly proportions.
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Friday,
May 23, 2003
Total Miles: 615.1
Miles: 23.3
A fairly uneventful day. Out sometime after nine. Easy hiking for most of the
day, which is what we had been expecting for the last few days only to be
disappointed. The Wingfoot guide seems to have been lying by omission about the
hills. Stopped for lunch by a pond and ate Bar-B-Q. Billy tried a different
Bar-B-Q product and it was a little rank. We then hiked up a 1000ft climb, doing
all we could to hold onto our stomach contents. Stopped at the Wood's Hole
Hostel to get Coke and chocolate. It's a great place run by extremely nice
people, but we decided to hike on to the shelter so we could be a little closer
to Pearisburg. Sadly the shelter was full, so we have carried on a couple of
miles and are just laying on the ground again, hoping the rain holds off.
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Sunday,
May 25, 2003
Day 40
Total Miles: 621.1
Miles: 6.0
Day 41
Total Miles: 628.4
Miles: 7.3
Failed to write last night as seems to happen in town. It did rain the night
before last. Billy did a fine job of erecting a makeshift shelter around
midnight. Got to town before 10 and ended up staying at the plaza motel. $45 and
not very nice. I slipped in the ropey shower and smashed my ribs against the
side of the bath pretty hard. It still hurts.
Pearisburg is probably not the nicest place on Earth. There were some scary
people in the laundromat. They reminded us of the Osbornes, but without the
money or success. We did get an AYCE chinese buffet for $4.95 which was ok.
There were good supermarkets in town and even a Walmart that we visited today.
Found supplies of Cadbury Dairy Milk finally. It's made by Hershey under license
so is probably horrible. I bought a Simon Says electronic game to play. It makes
me happy.
Had a lucky run of TV scheduling, getting to watch The Rookie, Running Man,
Planes, Trains and Automobiles, and Seinfeld. We even got to watch Tremors
before leaving in the morning. Bought too much bulky food and our packs are very
heavy. Sweated a lot in the 7 mile jaunt to this shelter. Nice weather today
that ended in heavy rain just after we arrived at the shelter.
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Monday,
May 26, 2003
Total Miles: 653.4
Miles: 25.0
Awoke to dense mist outside. Julie, a girl we had chatted to some, left before
us but returned to the shelter shortly after so she could follow us and not get
lost in the mist. Hiking through the fog was slightly surreal, especially passing
through a herd of cows that stared at us as we passed. Terrain is mostly flat at
the moment, just the odd climb onto or off of ridges.
Billy is looking comical, dressed in the skirt he bought at Wal-Mart. He looks like a kind of
scary Norman Bates character, an effect enhanced by his decision to carry his
food bag in his hands (to lower packweight), giving the impression he is
carrying a handbag.
We got to the shelter late, but only one other staying here. Sleeping in, but am
unable to lie on my front as my shower injury hurts too much. Expecting another
poor night's sleep.
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Tuesday,
May 27, 2003
Total Miles: 672.1
Miles: 18.7
Out late (10ish) after a sound night's sleep. Enjoyed reading the book I picked
up in the shelter yesterday (Ken Kesy's Sometimes a Great Notion). Two big
climbs and some heavy rain made the day uninspiring and slow. Had some extremely
soft going as we passed through farmland. At one point I thought Billy was going
to sink into the mud up to his knees. I enjoyed watching him fall on his arse as
we clambered over rocks on the ridge.
Met Vagabond at the shelter, having not seen him since NOC. Shelter and surroundings packed so we hiked on 1/2
mile and tarped.
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Wednesday,
May 28, 2003
Total Miles: 694.4
Miles: 22.3
Toughish day today - partly due to the terrain and partly due to foolish food
choices.
Had a couple of big climbs in the morning as we stove to reach
the grocery place 15.5 miles from the campsite. The weather was good and I
sweated a treat on the ups. We had a stop to visit the Dragon's Tooth - a big
rocky out croppy thing. I climbed as far up it as my fear of heights and common
sense would allow. Had slow-going for a while after that as the trail ran up and
down some very rocky stuff that required the use of hands and a willingness to
take risks.
When we finally made it to the grocery place, it was nearly 4pm and we hadn't eaten since breakfast. We had only been spurred on by the
guidebook's insistence that the place served breakfast, lunch and dinner. This
was a lie - it was just a gas station with second-rate grocery facilities. In
our hunger we ended up impulse-buying a meal. This approach failed to provide me
with a balanced and nutritious lunch. I ended up with the following: a sack of
crisps, nearly a 1lb of french onion dip, 1 pint of chocolate ice-cream, a
chocolate bar and half a gallon of milk.
The remaining 7 miles of the day were spent in deep concentration, trying to keep a cap on both ends of my
digestive system. We got to the shelter at 930, in the dark, to find it had been
demolished. Tarping.
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Friday,
May 30, 2003
Day 45
Total Miles: 713.0
Miles: 18.6
Day 46
Total Miles: 718.0
Miles: 5.0
Too busy drinking beer and watching the Bill Murray marathon to write last
night. Awoke to rain yesterday morning and had to hike in it for a few hours. I
don't like rain. Climbed McAfee Knob which had fine, if partially obscured views
of Virginia. We took photos of ourselves on the outcrop which is the
traditional, if terrifying, thing to do here. By the time we got to Timker's
Cliffs, the weather and views were much better. Got to check out the Aldie
Murphy monument - his is a very good story.
Did make good time in the afternoon to make it to the I81 interchange at Troutville. Got a room at the
very pleasant Best Western. A short and hazardous stroll down the highway got us
to McDonalds where we enjoyed fine dining in elegant surroundings. I didn't
fancy hiking on today, but couldn't convince Billy to zero, so we ended up
leaving around six. Not sure what we did to kill so much time between checking
out and leaving town. Must have spent it between shopping in the Kroger, eating
lunch at a BBQ restaurant and looking in the outfitters. I want to go to a
system of carrying a homosexual-travelers-bum-bag instead of a pack. They had a Mountainsmith one in the store, which may well have done the job, but it was $80
and I wasn't sure enough.
Tarping at the first shelter we got to this evening.
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Saturday,
May 31, 2003
Total Miles: 744.8
Miles: 26.8
A big mileage day. Felt pretty easy despite some very changeable weather. Had a
mix of sunshine and ferocious thunderstorms. Terrain was fine today with only
one longish climb towards the end. Tomorrow we'll start off with a 300ft, ten
mile one. Got to an extremely nice shelter late. Sleeping on the floor of the
porch.
We saw Drew at the shelter. Drew is basically a
fresh hiker and is doing pretty good sized miles for just having started the
trail recently. Drew couldn't start the trail as early, so he started in
North Carolina. Drew is from the Asheville area, so we had something to
talk about both having lived in North Carolina. Ben and I strolled into
camp just before dusk. The huge multi level shelter was full of hikers, so
Ben and I quietly cooked dinner, while talking to Drew, and did the usual and
made our spot away from the crowd. Laying down on the wraparound porch
where no one else was staying.
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Sunday,
June 1, 2003
Total Miles: 768.3
Miles: 23.5
The 3000ft climb turned out to be rather more, but we knocked off the miles
easily to give us one of our earliest finishes yet - in to camp by six. We got
to check out a big radar dome on the top of the mountain, which I found pretty
exciting. We hiked a while with a guy named Drew, whom we've met a few times. He
seems ok and Billy will even chat to him despite misgivings about his liberal
leanings.
The bugs are becoming a problem and I am obviously going to
regret getting my bug netting sent to Harper's Ferry [300 miles away] rather
than somewhere closer. Tried playing in the stream by our campsite, but the
water was way too cold. Had hoped to wash off some of my trail funk before
heading into Glasgow tomorrow.
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Monday,
June 2, 2003
Total Miles: 780.2
Miles: 11.9
Well I really want my bug netting now. I am covered in bites all over my face,
hands and neck. There are some mosquito bites, but they are mostly from tiny
black fly things that leave big marks when they bite.
We got to Glasgow
after a hitch with a guy in a decrepit Chevy Blazer. He looked rough - chewing
tobacco making his teeth appear even worse than they were. He was a nice enough
guy though. He had just finished a 15 hour night shift laying piping and he
looked tired. His brakes were clearly defective and I didn't feel confident as a
passenger. We arrived safely somehow.
Glasgow is a nice town in many
ways. There is a nice park and the library was good. We had breakfast in a small
deli (the only place in town). Had sausage/bacon/eggs in biscuits - breaking my
cardinal rule about breakfast baps in foreign countries. We spent a couple of
hours in the library sending mail and researching bum-bags. Ate a good lunch of
a sub sandwich and devilled eggs. We got a hitch back to the trail with an
extremely nice couple. We only had time for 12 miles in the end. Tomorrow kicks
off with a big climb. Joy.
Hitching was always a big deal for me, even this far
north. I always commented to Ben on our chances. I would look at the
road surface, see if any commercial buildings were in site, and the bends in the
road. We always kind of placed a bet on how long it would take to get the
ride into town. The hitch to Glasgow I thought would be a tricky one.
Not only did the road curve right where the trail comes out of the woods, but
there was a couple that had made it to the road along with us. The couple
was a boy and a girl, which usually automatically gets them picked up quickly.
I was doubting that they would be willing to help us though once they got their
hitch. So I got Ben to get away from them and head where the road
straightened out so we could be in better view and the cars would have a place
to pull over. We did wait a while, but the hitching gods were on our side,
and we miraculously got a hitch before the couple. But Ben and I for some
reason had hearts this morning and asked our driver if they would take the
couple in to town as well. He agreed.
The ride back to the trail happened to be in a Grand
Cherokee, leather seats, with an older couple that were visiting Glasgow and are
hiker enthusiasts. They enjoyed our achievements and wished us well.
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Tuesday,
June 3, 2003
Total Miles: 804.8
Miles: 24.6
Slept a little late today. Hiked a mile down the trail before realising we were
heading South and turning around. The weather has been uniformly foul all day -
cold, wet and windy in contrast to yesterday's blazing sun. Still managed to get
the mileage done despite all this - possibly helped by the weather not inspiring
us to take any more breaks than necessary. Sleeping in a shelter tonight in the
hope that it will help us to leave early tomorrow.
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Wednesday,
June 4, 2003
Total Miles: 825.3
Miles: 20.5
Succeeded in getting out by 7.45 which is pretty good for us. Weather was ok
until late afternoon when it rained on us. Had to walk the 1.5 miles to our
resupply as hitching wasn't going to happen. 'The Tea Room' wasn't exactly what
I was expecting. A shack run by a hillbilly was a far cry from the image of
blue-rinse old folk and doilies I had gotten from the name. Managed to find
enough there to stock up and even had microwaveable stuff for us to eat for
lunch. The owner ranted about the influx of city-folk to the area and about the
land they had owned that had been taken by the government. We discussed beef
cattle briefly. He owns some of the least healthy looking cows I've ever seen -
passers-by frequently report them to the police as a case of animal neglect. He
gave us a lift back to the trail.
Hiked up yet another 300 footer in the rain. I have some nasty chaffing issues and it hurts mightily. My anti-chaff
shorts won't dry because they're 92% cotton. My back is also hurting at the base
of my spine, on the right. It's never hurt there before. I'm hoping it'll fix
itself soon. Going to shoot for Waynesboro tomorrow. Should be easy terrain, just
hope that the rain stops and my body stays together.
The 'Tea Room' was a family run farm in which they had
turned the main parlor into a small grocery store. The store was
reminiscent to what you see on TV when the characters visit the town grocery
store. The store had the bookshelves with packaged products, very few were
name brand products that I am always in search of (ex: I always get Velveeta,
here I had to go with Ben's usual of powered cheese, the Mac 'n Cheese brand for
$0.99). Upon entering the store, it felt as though the store had been
closed for weeks. I was worried that the products would be out of date,
but he even had milk that was before the sale date. As we walked the 1.5
miles to 'The Tea Room', I was thinking, why would a tea club want to
accommodate smelly hikers? We found the store in a boarded state. Luckily,
having empty stomachs and backpacks, we hung around long enough that the
owner's son asked us what we needed and he opened the store. It turned out
the owner, his mother, was in the hospital...I'm sure she added a soft touch to
the store, but this guy was as Ben put it, a hillbilly.
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Thursday,
June 5, 2003
Total Miles: 846.5
Miles: 21.2
Froze our asses off last night, to use Billy's turn of phrase. It was very cold
and we didn't get 100% dry. My tactic of drying out my shorts in the foot of my
sleeping bag was a dismal failure. A wet, cold mass by my feet all night wasn't
what I needed.
From an unpromising start, it turned into a glorious day. It would have been a great hike, but for my back. It is killing me every time
I
walk. Not sure what to do about it if anything. Had a bit of a go at stretching,
but to no avail. Stretching hurts my ribs as well. Taking ibroprofene is the
best help I've found. We got the miles done, but it wasn't fun. Had a good lunch
stop at some rocks and laid around in the sun for an hour.
Made it to Rockfish Gap at 6.45. Hitching was going badly despite a lot of traffic.
Eventually a guy in a pick-up stopped for us. He had no idea we were hikers,
which is invariably a bad sign. He drank as he drove and didn't bother with a
seat-belt. He was kind enough to demonstrate the accelerative power of his
trucks, which reassured me no end. Some miscommunication and more ill-judgement
later, we were dropped off by our boisterous, bad toothed, sweary friend several
miles the wrong side of town.
The hike back to the centre was long and miserable. We eventually made it to the YMCA
before 9. An extremely nice place -
they have a site down by the river for hikers to stay for free. Ordered
Papa-John's pizza and gorged - I am going to regret that. Got some more
Cadbury's so I am happy. Going to sleep out and hope the weather holds for us.
Our miscommunication with our hitch was mainly my fault.
I talked to the guy as if he were a local. Asking him questions about where to
stay and eat. The area he was staying in was built because of Interstate
traffic (i.e. motels and restaurants at the exit). However the town was
two miles east of the Interstate. It ended up that our hitch was only in
town for work and had been residing in a motel that was near the Interstate and
was not familiar with the town's amenities. So he told us where we could stay
and eat, but where he was suggesting took us way out of town, and I didn't have
the guts to ask him to drive us back. So Ben and I walked back, Ben
hurting the entire way. Probably, in the end, it would have been best to
just walk into town, rather than hitch.
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Saturday,
June 7, 2003
Day 53
Total Miles: 846.5
Miles: 0.0
Day 54
Total Miles: 864.9
Miles: 18.4
No writing last night as usual. Awoke at the campsite at 5.30. Didn't have a
sound night's sleep due to a stomach full of pizza and a very loud train that
went by several times. Went to the Y early and showered - Billy was very happy
with the communal showers. Managed to check in to the Quality Inn by 7.30. This
gave us 25.5 hours in the room (for $55), and also two free continental
breakfasts.
Went and did laundry at a Laundromat with a Pang machine. I
enjoyed that immensely. Ate at McD's for lunch and strolled to the outfitters.
Spent hours trying on a Mountainsmith bum bag. All my stuff fits in it and I may
have bought it, but I still had doubts and it was expensive. I did get me a
Frogg Toggs rain jacket just like Billy's at the hunting store though. Spent the
evening watching TV, drinking wine&beer/milk and eating chinese
food.
Today, went to the post office and library. Got a lift back to the
trail with a guy outside the Kroger. Back on trail at 2.30. We're camping a
couple of miles South of the shelter, having stumbled for hours in the dark with
our pathetic new dollar-store flash lights.
In all our wisdom, Ben and I decided to lighten every
ounce possible. Shopping at the dollar store in town brought us the idea
to purchase those key chain lights that produce a red glow to them. The
lights are used to see where to stick your car keys into the door...we somehow
thought they would produce enough trail light to hike on at nite. Besides,
they only cost a $1. We were now headed into the Shenandoahs.
Government park, means more regulations.
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Sunday,
June 8, 2003
Total Miles: 887.8
Miles: 22.9
Late finish yesterday meant a late start this morning. Had been encouraged by
the thought of a cooked lunch, but when we got to Loft Mtn Campground I
remembered the deal from last year- the grill was a mile away down the road, so
we didn't bother and just ate food from the camp store instead. I at least got
beer with my lunch.
My attempts to phone home were thwarted by the good people at AT&T. I shall be able to try again tomorrow.
The rest of the day was fairly gloomy with mist all about. There are no views and it is
extra difficult to navigate in the dark. The only upside to the day was the first
bear sighting of the trip. Heard a rustling in the undergrowth and saw the fella
about 15yds from us. He ignored us. The shelter only had two people in it and
all the camp spots were taken, so we have had to disturb the occupants a little
and stay inside.
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Monday,
June 9, 2003
Total Miles: 907.8
Miles: 20.0
Slept like a log for the 2nd night running. Enjoyed crazy dreams. The other two
guys didn't seem at all bothered by our late arrival. Apparently there was a
huge storm in the night with thunder and lightning and torrential rain. This was
news to Billy and I. One of the guys had a mousetrap. He barely had time to step
away from the thing before he had his first catch. He ended up with a haul of
six, from which he made a mound of dead rodents for all to admire. The other guy
was carrying a pack that would make a sherpa weep.
My back hurt a little more than it had done for a while. It eased off after an hour or so before it
suddenly started to Really hurt, and I had to slow right down. I sat on a rock
despondently for a while. Eventually limped on to Lewis Campground. Ate junk
there for a while and spent an hour arguing with 15 different AT&T
operators, trying to charge my phone card. I gave up and bought another card.
Spoke to my mother who has, of course, been researching my ailment and
prescribed some stretching exercises. They seem to have helped a little and I
shall endeavour to do them every time we stop.
Our buddy Drew bought a camp-pillow in a fit of gayness - six ounces of Hollofil junk. I got slightly
carried away myself and bought a travel chess set. I still felt justified in
mocking Drew.
Eventually hiked on to Big Meadows, where we dined at the lodge. I had pasta and salad. It was very average and quite pricey. I did drink
my weight in Coke though. We're sleeping out tonight near the complex after a
welcome change in the weather. We bumped into Charles, a guy we had both met
weeks ago. Saw lots of bears and baby deer - jolly exciting. Tonight, we have
gas.
The Shenandoahs put regulations on hikers to stay at
designated campgrounds. We have only been in the park for 3 nites now, and
we have violated the rule twice. Its hard for us, mostly me, to just stop
because there is a shelter. I want to feel as though something was
accomplished today, so I always asked Ben to hike a little further. We
didn't want to pay hotel prices at the lodge, so we are camped in the woods mere
yards from the resort. We used the resort's resources- hoping to get an
upscale meal to reward ourselves, but instead we got a pricey dinner, that
sucked, had horrible service by some douche, but we tried to make the money back
by drinking coke and eating all the bread they would serve.
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Tuesday,
June 10, 2003
Total Miles: 927.0
Miles: 19.2
It was a good night to sleep out. Had an acceptable breakfast at the grill and
bought some overpriced groceries. Got distracted at Skyland, where I bought some
more overpriced junk food.
Have had more issues with my back. I'm
wondering what to do about it. My insurance doesn't look like it'll cover me
for anything. I did feel pretty good for the last hour of hiking though - the
pain changes unpredictably and my mood usually follows it. I am worried I may
not make it past Harpers Ferry.
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Wednesday,
June 11, 2003
Total Miles: 950.6
Miles: 23.6
Back hurt for most of the day, but not so much while hiking. We had a terrible
value and plain nasty meal at the Elkwallow Wayside. Met two people from Bristol
there. Uneventful day.
Staying at the Tom Floyd Wayside Shelter, having just left the park. Shortly after setting up in the shelter, a thunderstorm blew
in just like last year. Guess we're heading in to Front Royal tomorrow, though
we are not sure exactly why. The timing to get to Harper's in time to make the
post office is looking tricky.
The shelter has filled up. People all seem decent - a married couple we've seen a few times and two other hikers,
apparently called Sprint and E-Dogg. Circuit Rider and Sherlock (hiking
God-botherers) are tenting. I wonder if they will be spared being crushed in
their sleep by a falling tree as so nearly happened to a couple on my last
visit.
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Thursday,
June 12, 2003
Total Miles: 970.9
Miles: 20.3
Up early after an uncomfortable night's sleep. Billy had an awful time of it,
being cramped (my fault) and kept awake by snoring (me again). The hitch to
Front Royal happened very quickly. One of those nice older fellas that seem to
love picking up hikers at every opportunity. He told us about the Smithsonian
Zoological Park we were about to walk by. It had been used to raise cavalry
horses during the civil war and was now used to breed endangered
species.
We did our grocery shopping and ate breakfast at McD's. I am growing worryingly attached to the franchise. I bought some shorts at Big K to
replace the ones I got (which sucked) to replace my torn Speedos. We didn't even
need to try to hitch back to the trail. A guy saw us strolling along and picked
us up. 'Hiking Mike' was a teacher who had hiked all but 140 miles of the trail.
He was very friendly and vaguely interesting.
Our plans to reach Harper's Ferry for Saturday morning are looking a little optimistic, but we are going for
it anyway - the alternatives are all too irritating to consider. We stopped for
lunch at the Jim and Molly Denton Shelter - one of the nicest on the trail. A
south-bound section hiker was the only person there. He lectured political
science at George Washington University. He and Billy discussed US foreign
policy while I enjoyed the misleadingly advertised 'warm-water shower'. We got
stuck there for a while waiting out a thunderstorm. This brought both a welcome
respite from the heat and an equally welcome group of soaking wet female
hikers.
We hiked on for a while before stopping at a picnic table.
Suddenly Harper's by Saturday didn't seem like such a good plan and we then
frittered yet more time away playing chess. Much of the trail had been submerged
by the storms. Another came in as we walked, making it even worse going. Most of
the trail now stood under an inch of water, parts became bubbling streams. We
made it to Dick's Dome shelter, where we bumped into the married couple from
yesterday heading out - we did likewise.
Night hiking with these shoddy key-ring lights is near-impossible, so we are tarped at a trail intersection
just inside a state park, having failed to make it to Rod Hollow Shelter. We
have to do pushing 30 miles tomorrow to stay on track.
We are very inconsistent when Ben and I plan to walk every
day. We just think we might want to head there, but there are so many
variables that we never make a decision until it is practically putting the odds
against us. One variable that always played havoc on any type of planning
was our unwillingness to start every day at a reasonable time, nor finish
either. So instead of pushing on, we would stop and contemplate all the
variations of any possible conclusions. In this case we sat down and
played chess...until it finally hit us that we could indeed make it to Harpers
Ferry, but sh**, it's probably too late now. Let's try it anyhow. It
started to rain again, pouring sometimes, we were completely soaked. If
you were not wet from the pouring rain today, you were soaking inside your frogg
toggs from your sweat. Some parts of the trail are similar to walking a
creek bed. The Appalachian Trail in some areas plays a drainage ditch for
the rain, therefore, you must walk in inches of running water, never allowing
your shoes to dry. Being Appalachian Trail friendly, I was not willing to walk on the
outside of the trail, so it meant I had to walk the ditch the Appalachian Trail had created.
The shelter was full again, so we headed north. Once again tonite we are
illegally camping in a park.
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Saturday,
June 14, 2003
